Towards circular resource use: the potential of extended producer responsibility for textile circularity in the EU

Abstract

The textile industry has come into the policy spotlight due to growing evidence on negative social and environmental impacts and insufficient resource circularity. However, little is known on how the according policy goals by the EU will look like and how member states can achieve them. The aim of this study was to evaluate Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) schemes for their applicability in the textile context, since these instruments proved beneficial in increasing recycling of other product groups. By performing expert interviews, complemented by literature research, this study first explored textile streams along the “waste hierarchy”, followed by an analysis of EPR instruments. The results of this study show that EPR is specifically applicable for clothing, suggest promising textile products to achieve ambitious recycling targets and propose a combined, fourfold EPR approach for textiles: (1) design regulations coupled with product take-back, (2) financial responsibility as advanced fees dedicated to reuse, recycling and disposal, (3) organizational responsibility that integrates pre-existing collection infrastructure and (4) legal initiatives that ensure maximum transparency. Such a combined approach may increase textile circularity, assist in long-term environmental responsibility and create room for innovation in this market that also plays important social roles. Further research is needed to obtain more quantitative data on textile streams and to evaluate the recycling potential of technical and industrial textiles, in particular. This Master’s Thesis contributes to the understanding of EPR applicability in the textile industry. The results may serve as an orientation for the implementation of upcoming EU legislation on textiles.